The Sizzle and Smoke of Seoul’s BBQ Resurgence
My journey into Seoul’s barbecue scene begins at the source – the Majang Meat Market. This is where the city’s freshest and cheapest cuts of Hanwoo beef, Korea’s answer to Kobe, are on full display. As I wander through the bustling maze of stalls, the air is thick with the hum of commerce and the rhythmic clang of metal against meat. Workers slice, dice, and saw with masterful precision, packaging prime cuts and delivering them to the eager vendors who beckon me over to peruse their goods.
I settle on a stall near the back, where a smiling, bespectacled woman swiftly slices a slab of galbi sal, or rib meat. She ushers me around the corner and up two flights of stairs, leading me to Ooyeosa Restaurant – a one-room affair lit by fluorescent lights, with a single fridge containing Korean beer, soju, and soft drinks. It’s a basic setup, but the air is laced with the tantalizing scents of grease and smoke, and the hum of voices, laughter, and, of course, the sizzle of grilled meat.
I cook the meat on the tabletop grill above a glowing pit of coals, dipping the marbled slices in ssamjang, a fermented soybean-chili pepper paste, and wrapping them in crisp lettuce leaves. The result is an explosive flavor combination that has me wondering who needs the bells and whistles of fine dining when you have this primal, satisfying pleasure.
The Koreanization of Western Cuisine
As I delve deeper into Seoul’s evolving food scene, I meet up with Korean-American stand-up comedian Danny Cho, who introduces me to Linus Barbecue – a wildly popular American-style joint in the hipster Haebangchon neighborhood. “The three things I love most about Seoul are safety, transportation, and pork belly,” Danny quips, as we’re greeted with a heaped platter of pulled pork, chicken ribs, brisket, and handmade sausages, alongside two kinds of sauces and five different sides.
“This is great and about as authentic as it gets,” Danny says, wiping sauce from his fingers. “But I’m also very open to what I call the ‘Koreanization’ of Western food. I mean, why not? Food’s food, as long as it’s good, right? I’ve been to Michelin-starred places where I didn’t get it. So ultimately, I’m all for this fusion and cross-pollination. It can only be a good thing in the end.”
As I savor the decadent spread before me, I can’t help but agree. Seoul’s culinary landscape is a testament to the city’s confidence in taking what it does well and enhancing it, seamlessly blending traditional Korean flavors with global techniques and influences.
The Rise of Contemporary Korean Cuisine
The evolution of Seoul’s food scene extends far beyond the realm of barbecue. In recent years, a new generation of imaginative young chefs has emerged, pushing the boundaries of Korean cuisine and earning the city global recognition.
At the forefront of this movement is Gaon, a three-Michelin-starred restaurant where executive chef Kim Byung-jin paints a picture of Korean culture and history through his refined, fine-dining take on Joseon imperial cuisine. “The beauty of Korean cuisine is about being natural without combining too many elements on a plate,” he explains, highlighting the concept of “the beauty of empty space” – a minimalist approach that allows the essence of the ingredients to shine.
While Gaon occupies the highest echelon of Korean gastronomy, the trend of chef-driven contemporary Korean cuisine is gaining traction throughout the city. At the one-Michelin-starred Soigné, chef Lee Jun delivers meticulously curated, episodic menus that showcase the abundance and seasonality of local produce. “I don’t necessarily try to modernize Korean food, but I’m a human living in the modern era,” he says. “Everything I do is naturally modernized.”
Across Seoul, chefs are breathing new life into forgotten or overlooked local ingredients, like the fibrous and bitter deodeok root that Lee transforms into a delightfully contemporary dish by slow-cooking it, caramelizing it with hand-churned sage butter, and topping it with sunflower seed powder.
Putting Korean Cuisine on the Global Stage
While this new wave of Korean gastronomy is making waves at home, it’s also gaining recognition on the world stage. Chef Yim Jung-sik, often credited with introducing Korean cuisine to the world, has played a pioneering role in the modern Korean fine-dining movement.
A decade ago, Yim opened the flagship Jungsik in Seoul, and in 2012, he expanded to New York, where his restaurant went on to earn a Michelin star the same year, and then two in 2014. The Michelin Guide’s arrival in Seoul in 2017 further catapulted Korean cuisine into the global spotlight, with Jungsik’s flagship location earning one Michelin star in 2018 and then two in 2019.
“The whole scene in Korea started 10 years ago with the chef-owner concept and the introduction of French cuisine from abroad, and it has developed since then,” Yim reflects. “There was and still is a very small market for fine dining in Korea, although the quality has become very high because of the intense competition. The Michelin Guide made more people here interested in fine dining; they began to think, ‘Ah, so this is global too.'”
As the future of Korean gastronomy continues to unfold, Gaon’s Kim Byung-jin remains cautiously optimistic. “We can’t expect the rest of the world to appreciate the diversity of our food overnight just because Michelin has started to recognize it,” he says. “Koreans also need to start embracing the diversity in their gastronomy. I think that fine-dining culture in Korea has just begun.”
Discovering the Evolving and Exciting Food Scene in Seoul
Whether you’re seeking the primal pleasures of traditional Korean barbecue or the innovative, cross-pollinated creations of contemporary Korean cuisine, Seoul’s food scene is a testament to the city’s unwavering spirit of reinvention. From the bustling Majang Meat Market to the refined elegance of Michelin-starred restaurants, this vibrant capital is a culinary playground that never fails to surprise and delight.
As I stroll through the winding alleys of Myeongdong, the endless stream of K-pop-blasting cosmetics shops giving way to the rabbit warren of Dongdaemun Market, I’m struck by the city’s dynamic energy. And when I finally settle in at Myeongpoom Doyaji, a new restaurant specializing in Iberico pork, and watch the well-seasoned moksal (neck meat) sizzle on the grill, I’m reminded that Seoul is a city confident enough to take what it does well and elevate it to new heights.
Whether you’re a seasoned foodie or a curious traveler, a visit to Hotel Stayin’ in Seoul puts you at the heart of this evolving and exciting culinary landscape. So pack your appetite and get ready to explore the reinvention of Seoul, one delicious bite at a time.
