Escaping the Bustle of Seoul
On our third day in Seoul, South Korea, my travel buddy and I decided we had enough of the glitzy Gangnam scene. There’s only so many times I can attempt that iconic K-pop dance before my two left feet give up in protest. We consulted our trusty Seoul Selection Guide and saw that there were four recommended hiking options in the city’s surrounding mountains: Mt. Bukhansan, Mt. Bugaksan, Mt. Namsan, and Mt. Inwangsan.
Since we were planning to visit the iconic N Seoul Tower on Mt. Namsan later that night, Mt. Inwangsan seemed like the logical choice for an earlier hike. Plus, the book touted it as having some “unusual rock formations,” and you know I’m all about those quirky geological marvels.
Seoul is a high-tech, chic, and bustling metropolis, and most of the city’s highlights are found in its busy urban areas. There’s nothing inherently wrong with that – as a whole, Seoul is one of my favorite cities. But sometimes, you just need to escape the superficiality and excess, you know? Luckily, Seoul offers the perfect antidote: its abundance of mountains surrounding the city.
Finding the Trailhead
After exiting Dongnimmun Station on Line 3, we were supposed to head towards the Hyundai Apartments to access the trailhead to Mt. Inwangsan. However, as per my usual travel style, I got a bit distracted and wandered towards the nearby Independence Gate instead. This impromptu detour was actually quite worthwhile, as the gate is a neat historic site. And on the plus side, you no longer need to take a trip to Paris to see that other famous gate!
Anyway, getting back on track, we set out for the Hyundai Apartments. Now, the Seoul Guide directs you to go behind the apartments without much explanation as to where they actually are or how to locate them. Same goes for some of the other sites I Googled while trying to figure it out. We ended up just wandering towards a tall set of buildings and got lucky that they happened to be the right ones. In case you’re wondering, the photo above shows the Hyundai Apartments – in case you happen upon this post while trying to find the trailhead yourself.
It’s not exactly a grand introduction to the trail, but the road winding around the apartments eventually leads you to the actual starting point. As we continued up this way, it started to feel like we were wandering into a secluded little village, and some of the places the trail passed seemed decidedly private. At this point, we wondered if the book was leading us into a bit of urban exploring… and possibly Korean jail time. But as we saw a few other hikers along the way, our concerns dissipated a bit. Still, a word of caution – this isn’t your typical, well-marked trailhead setup.
The Winding Trail
Although the path winds past a variety of private-ish places, it’s actually quite rewarding, with beautiful murals and other neat design touches before you even reach the main part of the mountain trail. And the hike itself has a real “Choose Your Own Adventure” kind of vibe – there are multiple paths to take at various points, most of which will lead you to the same destinations, just by different routes. Some of these alternate paths, however, lead nowhere, like the gated one to the left that we quickly backtracked from.
The trail starts to get really interesting when you reach the various shrines and temples along the way. The main one is Guksadang, which is described as one of Korea’s most important shamanist shrines. I’m not entirely sure why it’s so revered, but it’s said to have been a site for exorcisms, so maybe there are some lingering demonic spirits up in these hills. Sounds like a good premise for a horror B-movie, if you ask me.
After the Guksadang shrine, you’ll come across some stairs leading up to Seonbawi, or the “Zen Rocks.” The large rock formations here are supposedly meant to resemble a Buddhist monk, but to me, they look more like a Salvador Dalí fever dream than any sort of enlightened being. Maybe the person who originally made that comparison had a little too much of the, uh, local Korean “herbal supplements” on the way up. Regardless, the rocks do look pretty darn cool.
Sweeping Views of Seoul
As you continue along the trail, ascending higher into the hills, the surroundings start to feel much more rural, with the shrines, streets, and cars giving way to lush greenery, towering rocks, and serene gardens. And the views just keep getting better and better. That iconic tower peeking out in the distance is none other than N Seoul Tower, sitting atop Mt. Namsan.
I have to admit, we ended up heading back down before sunset to make our way to N Seoul Tower, but in hindsight, I think I would have just stayed up here. The views from the higher elevations of Mt. Inwangsan, with the ancient Fortress Walls of Seoul in the foreground, would have made for some truly stunning sunset shots. And with the relative lack of crowds up here compared to the madness at N Seoul Tower, it would have been a much more peaceful and atmospheric experience.
The Fortress Walls
Once you reach the top and the Old Fortress Walls of Seoul, you have a few options. You can walk along the walls, double back, and continue down the trail. Or, you can cross over to the other side of the walls, where there’s a more maintained and polished trail back down. This side felt a bit more like a traditional city park, complete with picnic spots and other amenities.
Personally, I much preferred the sense of adventure and cultural immersion on the initial trail up through the shrines and private-ish areas. It really felt like we were getting a slice of authentic Korean life and a more laid-back, off-the-beaten-path experience. The manicured trail on the other side of the walls, while certainly easier and more accessible, just didn’t have the same allure for me.
Wrap-up
If you’re visiting Seoul and looking for a unique hike that combines history, culture, and stunning city views, I would definitely recommend adding Mt. Inwangsan to your itinerary. It was one of the highlights of our trip, providing a nice change of pace from the urban hustle and the historical shrines we’d seen elsewhere in the city.
That said, if you’re short on time or not particularly interested in the ancient fortress walls, you could probably skip this hike. From a pure difficulty standpoint, it’s a relatively easy trek, so if you’re hoping for something a bit more challenging, you might want to consider tackling Mt. Bukhansan in the Bukhansan National Park instead.
Regardless of which mountain you choose, getting out of the city center and into the surrounding hills is a must-do for any Seoul visit in my opinion. It’s the perfect way to balance out all the high-tech, high-energy city experiences with a healthy dose of nature, history, and cultural exploration. Happy hiking!
