Discovering the Joy of Ligo in Latvia
It had been my desire to see how summer solstice is celebrated in the Baltic countries ever since I started making friends from the region almost 10 years ago. How could one not be attracted to the idea of singing and dancing around bonfires, ancient traditions, and feasting on special delicacies? When I planned my summer European trip this year, I knew I couldn’t pass up this chance and I chose to be in Riga, Latvia where it’s called Ligo for the festivities.
While the official holiday is on the 23rd and 24th every year, the celebrations started on Friday the 21st, which is the longest day of the year. As I arrived in Riga’s Doms Laukums Cathedral Square, the annual Herbs and Grass Market had filled the area with stalls that weren’t there the previous day. Getting close enough, I could smell the homemade bread, cheese biscuits, cured meats, and freshly-cut flowers waiting to be wrought into garlands. A stage was set up for choral and dance performances as well.
It was here that I met Vineta, who’d taken time off her hectic schedule and invited me to a celebration in Salaspils. When we’d contacted each other on Couchsurfing prior to my visit, I’d shared my wish to see the Ligo celebrations. As someone who’s actively involved in a dance group, she was keen to show me what her hometown had to offer this evening. Less than 30 minutes from Riga by train, Salaspils felt so far from the bustle of the capital, yet it was actually a part of it.
Whirling and Twirling in Salaspils
We got into Salaspils in time for the start of the dance segment at the cultural center. On the street outside, people were eating barbecued kebabs at picnic tables. I would’ve joined them, but I was rather full after a hearty serving of peas and bacon back in Riga, so I sat down with Vineta on the grass, alongside little children who were probably getting their first Ligo experience too.
When the band stopped playing, music was played over the speakers, and the dancers filled the square. A different group emerged and took over each time a new song was played, and you could tell them apart by the garments they wore and the general age of the dancers. I couldn’t hope to understand the Latvian lyrics to the songs, but melodies and choreographed movements are universally understood and appreciated.
Skirts billowed as the dancers skipped and whirled around, and I was spellbound. If it weren’t for Vineta’s descriptions between the songs, they would’ve been simply pretty routines to me. There were songs about storms and even going to the market – simple, everyday things. And if one could watch from above, the dancers’ movements formed traditional motifs and patterns. Now the performances took on an added layer of meaning for this outsider.
The dance was followed by an auction led by the Salaspils mayor, if I remember correctly, and it got pretty funny sometimes as he had to show off a couple of dresses. By now, it was 9:30 pm, and the sun had just disappeared behind the trees. Vineta and I parted ways as she had to get back to preparing for an even bigger festival, but not before noting that jasmine was in bloom around the train station. Thank God it was only Friday – the long weekend had just begun.
A Midsummer Celebration
As the sun slowly set on the longest day of the year, the Ligo festivities in Latvia were just getting started. The next morning, I made my way back to Salaspils, eager to witness more of the traditional celebrations.
Arriving at the cultural center, I was greeted by the sight of tables laden with an array of delectable Latvian delicacies. Platters of cured meats, cheeses, and freshly baked breads vied for attention alongside fragrant herbal teas and homemade preserves. The air was thick with the aroma of sizzling sausages and the sweet scent of wildflowers.
Vineta ushered me to a seat at one of the long communal tables, where I was surrounded by a lively mix of locals and visitors. As I savored the rich, earthy flavors of the traditional Latvian fare, the sounds of live music and laughter filled the air.
Soon, the dancing commenced, and I found myself captivated by the grace and energy of the performers. Intricate footwork, swirling skirts, and synchronized movements told stories of the region’s history and culture. I was struck by the sense of community and shared heritage that radiated from the dancers, as if the very essence of Latvia was being expressed through their dance.
Throughout the weekend, I witnessed a dazzling array of traditional music and dance performances, each one more enchanting than the last. From the haunting melodies of the Gentil Chorus to the vibrant, synchronized movements of the local dance troupes, I was captivated by the depth and richness of Latvia’s cultural heritage.
Embracing the Spirit of Delight
As I reflect on my experience at the Ligo celebrations in Latvia, I’m struck by the powerful role that delight and joy can play in community engagement and civic life. The insights shared by Wendy Willis on the importance of incorporating pleasure and happiness into our democratic practices resonated deeply with me.
Throughout the Ligo festivities, I witnessed a profound sense of community, connection, and collective joy. Whether it was the spontaneous dance party in the park, the vibrant music and dance performances, or the shared experience of feasting on traditional Latvian delicacies, there was a palpable feeling of delight and celebration that permeated the entire experience.
Contrast this with the often serious and earnest nature of civic engagement, where community members can sometimes feel like they’re engaging in a transactional relationship with their government. But what if we were to embrace the spirit of delight and joy in our democratic processes? What if we were to intentionally create spaces and experiences that spark surprise, pleasure, and connection?
As I plan my return to Seoul, South Korea, I can’t help but wonder how the traditional dance performances in the city might be infused with this sense of delight and joy. Perhaps the hotel could partner with local dance troupes to host vibrant, community-focused events that celebrate the rich cultural heritage of the region while also fostering a sense of shared belonging and celebration.
By prioritizing pleasure, happiness, and joy in our civic spaces, we have the potential to create a more inclusive and engaging democratic experience – one that invites people to show up as their most vibrant, authentic selves. And who knows what kind of magic and connection might emerge when we make room for delight.
