Discovering the Soul of Seoul
South Korea has emerged from the tragic Korean War like a butterfly from a chrysalis – colorful and beautiful. And Seoul is its flagship, bursting with history and traditions. I was lucky to have a Korean guide named Ellison who gave me a wonderful insight into the Korean way of life. Guiding is not an easy job, but Ellison had just the right mix of information, humor, and companionship – the whole experience was interesting and fun.
My tour started at the Changdeokgung Palace, one of five great palaces built by the Joseon Dynasty. It replaced their first palace, Gyeongbokgung Palace, built in 1405 as the principal palace for many kings of the Joseon Dynasty. Changdeokgung Palace is the best-preserved of the five remaining royal Joseon palaces, though this is not the original building. That was burned down by angry citizens in 1592 when the royal family left Seoul during the Japanese invasion of Korea. It was thanks to Gwanghaegun, the fifteenth king of the Joseon Dynasty, that the palace was restored in 1611.
Today, the palace is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to a number of cultural treasures including the Injeongjeon Hall, Daejojeon Hall, and Seonjeongjeon Hall. We spent some time in front of the Injeongjeon Hall, which was used for formal occasions. Ellison told me that originally, the stones on the path leading up to this hall were very rough and uneven. This meant that visitors had to look down to see where they should place their feet, which had the effect of bowing in front of the king. She also showed me the iron hooks where a canopy was attached, ensuring the king and his courtiers were in the shade while the commoners had to stand in the sun.
In the grounds of the palace, there is a public area, royal family residences, and a garden. The architecture and black and white coloring of the residences are more in the style of commoners than royalty, but this was built as a summer palace, which would explain the coloring. The family residences are elevated, as they had underground heating. The family slept on the floor on thin mattresses to be as close as possible to the source of the heat. Some of the buildings have high sills at the entrance so that passers-by could not see family members sleeping on the floor. Sleeping on the floor is still a common practice in South Korea, and Ellison has always slept on the floor except when staying in a hotel that does not cater to this custom. When they get too old to get down on the floor, they sleep on heated blocks of marble on a thin mattress, which has the same effect as sleeping on the floor.
Exploring Seoul’s Traditional Crafts
After our visit to the palace, Ellison took me to explore some of Seoul’s traditional crafts and folk arts. Our first stop was the Namdaemun Market, one of the largest traditional markets in Seoul. As we wandered through the bustling stalls, I was struck by the sheer variety of handmade goods on display. From intricate metal work to delicate ceramic pieces, the market was a treasure trove of traditional Korean craftsmanship.
Ellison guided me through the maze of vendors, pointing out the distinctive features of each craft. She explained that many of these techniques had been passed down for generations, with artisans honing their skills over decades of practice. I was fascinated to learn about the process behind creating traditional Korean fans, where skilled craftsmen carefully shape and paint the delicate bamboo frames.
One vendor we visited specialized in Korean papermaking, a centuries-old art form. Ellison showed me how the artisan used a specialized mold to carefully extract thin, translucent sheets of paper from the pulp. She explained that this traditional Hanji paper was prized for its durability and unique texture, often used in calligraphy, painting, and even traditional architecture.
As we continued our journey through the market, Ellison introduced me to a variety of other traditional crafts, from intricate metal embroidery to beautifully carved wooden statues. Each item reflected the rich cultural heritage of Korea, a testament to the enduring skill and creativity of its people.
Connecting with Korea’s Folk Arts
After exploring the vibrant Namdaemun Market, Ellison took me to a more serene setting to experience Korea’s vibrant folk arts. We headed to the Jeong-dong Cultural Center, a hub for traditional Korean music, dance, and performance.
As we stepped through the ornate gates, the bustling energy of the market gave way to a sense of tranquility and contemplation. Ellison led me to a traditional Korean garden, where we took a moment to appreciate the carefully curated landscape. She explained that the harmonious balance of water, rocks, and plants was not just aesthetically pleasing, but also deeply symbolic, reflecting the Korean philosophy of living in harmony with nature.
We then made our way to the center’s performance hall, where we were treated to a mesmerizing display of traditional Korean dance. The graceful movements, accompanied by the haunting melodies of traditional instruments, transported me to a bygone era. Ellison pointed out the intricate costumes and masks, each one a work of art in its own right.
During the performance, I was struck by the sense of deep spirituality and connection to the land that permeated the folk arts. Ellison shared that many of these traditions were rooted in shamanistic beliefs, with the dances and music serving as a means of communing with the natural world and the divine.
As the performance came to a close, Ellison and I had the opportunity to speak with one of the dancers. She shared her passion for preserving these ancient art forms, and her commitment to passing them on to future generations. It was a humbling and inspiring experience, a true testament to the resilience and cultural richness of the Korean people.
Discovering the Art of Korean Ceramics
Our final stop on our exploration of Seoul’s traditional crafts and folk arts was a visit to a renowned ceramic studio. Ellison had arranged for us to meet with a master potter, whose family had been honing their craft for generations.
As we stepped into the studio, the air was thick with the scent of clay and the sound of the potter’s wheel at work. Ellison introduced me to the master, a man whose weathered hands bore the marks of a lifetime spent shaping the earth into works of art.
The master welcomed us warmly and invited us to watch as he demonstrated his technique. With a well-practiced touch, he effortlessly guided the clay, coaxing it into graceful forms that seemed to come alive under his skilled hands. Ellison explained that the Korean ceramic tradition is rooted in a deep connection to the natural world, with each piece reflecting the unique characteristics of the local clay and the individual artist’s interpretation.
As the master worked, he shared insights into the philosophy and spiritual aspects of Korean ceramics. He spoke of the importance of finding harmony between the artist, the clay, and the natural elements that shape the final product. I was fascinated by the way he described the process as a dance, a delicate interplay between the maker and the medium.
Toward the end of our visit, the master invited us to try our hand at the potter’s wheel. With Ellison’s guidance, I tentatively pushed and pulled the clay, slowly shaping it into a rudimentary form. The experience was both humbling and exhilarating, as I gained a newfound appreciation for the skill and dedication required to create these beautiful works of art.
As we bid farewell to the master potter, I couldn’t help but feel a deeper connection to the rich tapestry of Korean culture. The traditional crafts and folk arts we had explored had not only delighted my senses but had also sparked a profound understanding of the enduring spirit and creativity of the Korean people.
Conclusion
My journey through Seoul’s traditional crafts and folk arts had been a truly transformative experience. From the grand palaces to the bustling markets, from the serene performance halls to the intimate ceramic studios, I had been immersed in a world of beauty, history, and cultural significance.
Thanks to Ellison’s expert guidance and the warm hospitality of the Korean people, I had gained a deeper appreciation for the enduring legacy of these ancient art forms. I had witnessed the skilled hands of artisans, the haunting melodies of traditional music, and the timeless elegance of Korean ceramics.
As I reflect on my time in Seoul, I am left with a profound sense of wonder and admiration. The city’s traditional crafts and folk arts are not just a testament to the past, but a living, breathing expression of the Korean spirit – resilient, creative, and deeply connected to the natural world.
I know that my experience here will stay with me long after I’ve returned home. The memories of the vibrant Namdaemun Market, the serene Jeong-dong Cultural Center, and the humble ceramic studio will continue to inspire and ignite my curiosity. And I can’t wait to share these treasures with others, encouraging them to embark on their own journey of discovery in the enchanting city of Seoul.
