Seeking Sanctuary in the City of Skyscrapers
I’ll admit, when I first arrived in Seoul, the towering skyscrapers, bustling streets, and neon-lit billboards left me feeling a bit overwhelmed. As someone who craves serenity and appreciates the simple pleasures in life, the relentless energy of the South Korean capital seemed almost jarring at times.
But then, a wise monk named Jang Jeok shared with me the secret to finding tranquility amidst the chaos. “Before we begin,” he said, “you must clear your mind of all traces of city noise. Let us meditate.”
I followed Jang up the winding path through Bukhansan National Park, leaving the urban sprawl behind. As we reached the tranquil sanctuary of Ilseonsa Temple, where Jang has lived for the past seven years, I felt a profound sense of calm wash over me. This, I realized, is the true heart of Seoul – a city that masterfully blends its ancient Buddhist heritage with the trappings of the modern world.
Jogyesa: Seoul’s Spiritual Epicenter
Jang insisted that no visit to Seoul’s temples would be complete without a stop at Jogyesa, the country’s most important Buddhist temple. Constructed in 1395, Jogyesa stands as a striking juxtaposition of past and present, surrounded by gleaming skyscrapers yet maintaining an air of timeless serenity.
As I wandered the temple grounds, I was struck by the displays of genuine religious devotion. Worshippers circumambulated the 500-year-old Sophora japonica, or “Scholar tree,” while others sat outside the Daeungjeon main hall, poring over Buddhist texts. The real magic, however, happens during the months leading up to Buddha’s birthday in the spring. That’s when Jogyesa is transformed into a veritable lantern festival, with colorful lights strung overhead and the warm glow of devotion illuminating every corner.
Jogyesa may be surrounded by the trappings of modern Seoul, but it remains a place where the ancient traditions of Korean Buddhism thrive. As Jang eloquently put it, “While a temple surrounded by corporate and financial buildings may make for a less spiritual experience, Jogyesa remains popular with travelers and locals alike.”
Bongeunsa: An Evening of Solitude
Just a short distance from the bustling heart of Jogyesa lies Bongeunsa, one of the oldest temples in Seoul, dating back to 794 AD. Jang recommended that I visit in the evening, when the crowds thin out and the temple takes on an air of serene solitude.
As the blue hour faded into night, I found myself drawn to the courtyard in front of the main hall, where a solitary monk chanted softly as wisps of incense drifted through the air. I wandered the grounds, exploring the quieter corners away from the main road, until the only sound was the crunch of gravel underfoot. The towering high-rise apartments of affluent Gangnam District loomed overhead, a stark reminder that I was still very much in the heart of the city.
One of the highlights of Bongeunsa is the stunning 23-meter-tall Maitreya statue, whose reflection in the polished stone floor is a sight to behold in the soft evening light. Bongeunsa also offers a variety of cultural programs for visitors, including temple stays and a “Templelife” experience where you can join a group for a temple tour, tea ceremony, and meditation session.
Gilsangsa: From Courtesan to Contemplation
As Jang led me through the grounds of Gilsangsa, I couldn’t help but be captivated by the temple’s fascinating history. What was once a renowned “yojeong” (a restaurant where powerful men would dine and interact with courtesans) is now a serene place of contemplation and self-discovery.
In the mid-1990s, the former owner of Daewongak – one of the most popular yojeong establishments in Seoul – decided to donate the sprawling property to a Buddhist monk, after being profoundly affected by a book on non-attachment. Today, visitors can still spot remnants of the temple’s scandalous past, with some of the small outbuildings repurposed as solitary meditation rooms.
Gilsangsa now runs programs with titles like “Find Your True Self in the Busy City,” a fitting reflection of the transformation that took place here. As Jang said, “Kim believed that she had found her true self at the end of her life, and visitors can too.”
Bongwonsa: Preserving Ancient Traditions
Of all the temples Jang recommended, Bongwonsa held a special place in his heart. Founded in 889, this temple belongs to the Taego Order, which allows its monks to marry and have children – a tradition that has led to the strong preservation of ancient Buddhist practices and artifacts.
“There’s nowhere else in Seoul like Bongwonsa,” Jang enthused. Each year in early June, the temple hosts the Yeongsanjae, a festival of traditional music and dance performances focused on themes of world peace and the reunification of North and South Korea. Later in the summer, the Seoul Lotus Flower Culture Festival brings even more vibrant cultural displays to this oasis of tranquility.
To reach Bongwonsa, I took a short bus ride from Sinchon station, leaving the high-rises of the city behind and entering what felt like a historical village, complete with well-preserved traditional houses. It was a world away from the glass and steel of Seoul, and a perfect respite for the senses.
Hwagyesa: A Natural Escape
As much as I enjoyed immersing myself in Seoul’s urban energy, there were times when I craved a deeper connection to nature. Jang knew just the place: Hwagyesa, a temple complex surrounded by the verdant foothills of Mt. Samgak.
“You wake up feeling as though you’re in the middle of the countryside,” Jang promised, and he wasn’t wrong. Even though Hwagyesa is just a 15-minute walk from the nearest station, the sound of the crystal-clear stream and the serene forest setting made me feel a world away from the bustling city.
In addition to the stunning natural beauty, Hwagyesa also offers temple stays, allowing visitors to truly unplug and experience the rhythms of monastic life. The Seoul International Zen Center, based at the temple, even runs a three-month meditation course every summer for those seeking a deeper spiritual journey.
As I wandered the grounds of Hwagyesa, I came across visitors performing 108 prostrations – a humbling sight that made me appreciate the depth of devotion practiced within these walls. It was the perfect antidote to the frenetic pace of Seoul, a chance to reconnect with the natural world and my own inner calm.
Yeonghwasa: Easy Access, Profound Beauty
Not all of Seoul’s temple treasures require a strenuous hike to reach. Jang pointed me towards Yeonghwasa, a temple with a history dating back to 674 AD, nestled in the pine forests on the side of Achasan Mountain.
“Yeonghwasa is one of Seoul’s most beautiful temples,” Jang told me, “and it’s easy to access by car, bus, or subway.” That convenience, combined with its proximity to the Seoul Children’s Grand Park, makes Yeonghwasa an excellent option for families seeking a dose of serenity.
As I made my way up the 108-step trail to the serene statue of the Maitreya Buddha, I was struck by the temple’s ability to balance tranquility and accessibility. The giant bell, rung 28 times in the morning and 33 in the evening, served as a soothing accompaniment to my exploration of the grounds.
Yeonghwasa may be easy to reach, but it in no way compromises on the awe-inspiring beauty that defines Seoul’s temple treasures. It’s a testament to the city’s ability to seamlessly weave its ancient heritage into the modern landscape.
Heungcheonsa: Architectural Elegance
While many of Seoul’s temples dazzle with their natural settings, Jang insisted that Heungcheonsa stands apart for its unparalleled architectural beauty. Established in 1397, this temple preserves the traditional style of Korean Buddhist architecture better than any other.
“Heungcheonsa represents how temples used to look,” Jang explained, “with its varied roof tiles and white columns painted with black hanja script.” Throughout its history, the temple has been a favorite of the Korean royal family, who frequently funded its repairs and expansions.
As I wandered the grounds, I was struck by the contrast between Heungcheonsa’s historic elegance and the towering modern high-rise apartment blocks that now surround it. It’s an incongruous setting, to be sure, but one that only adds to the temple’s photogenic appeal.
Be sure to visit the temple’s visitors center to learn more about its fascinating history, including the handwriting of King Yeongchin, the last crown prince of the Korean Empire, which the temple proudly displays. Heungcheonsa is a testament to the enduring power of Korean Buddhist architecture, a true gem in the heart of this ever-evolving city.
Discovering Serenity in Seoul
As I bid farewell to Jang and made my way back to the bustling streets of Seoul, I couldn’t help but reflect on the wealth of temple treasures that lie hidden within this vibrant city. From the ancient grandeur of Bulguksa to the serene solitude of Bongeunsa, Seoul has a remarkable ability to transport visitors to a realm of tranquility and spiritual contemplation.
And that, I realized, is the true essence of Seoul – a city that seamlessly blends its millennia-old Buddhist heritage with the trappings of the modern world. By seeking out these oases of calm, travelers can not only deepen their understanding of Korean culture, but also find a much-needed respite from the relentless energy of the city.
So, the next time you find yourself in Seoul, don’t just get swept up in the dazzling lights and frenetic pace. Take the time to explore the city’s temple treasures, and discover the serenity that lies at the heart of this extraordinary destination. And who knows, you might just come away with a newfound appreciation for the simple pleasures in life, just as I did.
Ready to plan your Seoul temple adventure? Check out Hotel Stay Inn Seoul for the best accommodations and insider tips to make the most of your journey.
