Beating the Seoul Heat in Hanok Haven
It’s almost noon and the sun is beating down mercilessly on the streets of Seoul. The temperature has been steadily climbing, and today it’s reached a sweltering 34 degrees Celsius. As a fellow Indian, I can attest that this heat is no joke – even we have our limits!
Just a couple of days ago, the weather was pleasant, with cool mornings and breezy evenings. But now, it feels like the air itself has a clammy grip around our necks. Every other day, my phone buzzes with an emergency alert warning about the heatwave, urging me to stay indoors and hydrated.
“Isn’t it hotter in India?” my friends often ask. “Much hotter,” I reply. Yet, somehow, this scorching Seoul summer is becoming too much, even for me. So, with my trusty sketchbook and pen in hand, I decide to venture out and seek refuge in the shaded alleys of Bukchon Hanok Village.
A Disoriented Detour
As I step out of Anguk station, the roads are eerily empty, save for a few construction workers and some lobster-red tourists stumbling along, maps in one hand and handheld fans in the other. Completely disoriented by the blinding sun and stifling heat, I abandon my own map and opt to follow the lost-looking group of three women.
Big mistake. They lead me straight to a souvenir stall, then an ice cream shop, and finally a jewelry store. Realizing my error, I quickly ditch the group and take matters into my own sweaty hands. For someone who doesn’t usually sweat much, I’m melting like a candle in this inferno, and it’s not a pretty sight.
Determined to find my way to Bukchon, I duck into the air-conditioned haven of a local Emart supermarket. With a smile, the kind staff provide me with directions: “Just keep going straight and turn left. It’s only 5 minutes away.” To show my gratitude, I buy a few bottles of mineral water, even though the melons are exorbitantly priced.
Shady Solace in Bukchon-ro 11da-gil
Armed with hydration and a newfound sense of direction, I set out again, this time with dry armpits. And just as the last vestiges of my patience start to wane, I stumble upon a quiet alley called Bukchon-ro 11da-gil – my shady solace.
Bukchon Hanok Village is a well-known destination for travelers visiting Seoul, with its cluster of traditional Korean hanok houses dating back to the Joseon dynasty. As I sit on the corner of this peaceful street, sketching the scene before me, I can’t help but feel like I’ve been transported back in time.
For the entire hour I spend here, I hardly see a soul – just two stray cats, a passing SUV, and the distant figure of a person hobbling in my direction. It’s easy to imagine what a 600-year-old office rush hour would have looked like, with noblemen and high-ranking officials hurrying towards the royal palace in their elegant silk court uniforms. But my dehydrated brain cells can only muster so much mental imagery.
An Unlikely Companion
As I’m about to give up on my sketch and call it a day, a figure approaches me from behind. It’s an elderly, toothless grandma, dressed in a vibrant lemon yellow floral dress. She stands over me, intently studying my sketchbook and the scene before us. With a nod of her head, she encourages me to continue.
“Um, no, it’s too hot. I was actually leaving,” I say, pretending to pack up my things. But the grandma keeps nodding and pointing to my dip pen, completely oblivious to my words. I feel like the performer who’s obligated to perform, even if there’s only one person in the audience. But sometimes, that one person is enough, if they truly care.
So, I start sketching again, and the grandma leans over with interest, or perhaps to compensate for her failing eyesight. She nods and smiles, seemingly pleased with my work. I continue like a 5-year-old being watched as she finishes her school homework, and the grandma sticks by me, occasionally pointing out details I’ve missed or chosen to overlook. This stickler for accuracy isn’t going anywhere.
When I finally finish the drawing I was ready to give up on, the grandma is still there, grinning from ear to ear. I can see her gums, and I can’t help but smile back. Sometimes, all it takes is one person to make you keep going.
Preserving the Past, Embracing the Future
Travelers who haven’t visited Seoul yet may already have seen pictures of Bukchon Hanok Village on every guidebook, magazine, and internet article describing the city. This area has a large cluster of hanok, or traditional Korean wooden houses, that have been so beautifully preserved that a stroll down the narrow, winding alleys can feel like a true time-travel experience.
In the past, these hanok housed the noblemen and high-ranking government officials who enjoyed easy access to the royal palaces and stunning views of the capital. But as Seoul modernized in the 20th century, the large estates were divided into smaller plots, and densely packed townhouse-style hanok were built along the hills.
For much of the 20th century, Bukchon was the wealthiest neighborhood in Seoul. However, in the 1970s, the development of the tony Gangnam district sparked a demographic shift, and many of the wealthy moved south of the Hangang River. In the 1990s, the situation took a turn for the worse, as many of the hanok were torn down to make way for unsightly multi-family homes.
Thankfully, in 2001, Seoul City and local residents came together to launch a program that would allow residents to update their homes while preserving the hanok’s unique beauty and the singular charm of the neighborhood. Today, Bukchon Hanok Village stands as a testament to Korea’s rich cultural heritage, where the past and present coexist in perfect harmony.
A Stroll Through Time
As I wander through the winding alleys of Bukchon, I can’t help but feel a sense of wonder and appreciation for the history that permeates every corner. The graceful curved roofs and the intricate details of the hanok architecture transport me to a bygone era, where the rhythms of daily life were shaped by the ebb and flow of the royal court.
It’s easy to imagine the noblemen and high-ranking officials emerging from these houses, adjusting their elegant silk court uniforms as they hurry towards the palace. The air is still, and the shade provides a welcome respite from the relentless heat. I settle back into my shady spot on Bukchon-ro 11da-gil, and the world around me seems to slow to a peaceful crawl.
Occasionally, a stray cat or a passing vehicle interrupts the tranquility, but for the most part, I’m left to my own devices, soaking in the rich history and charm of this special place. It’s a far cry from the bustling streets and towering skyscrapers that define much of modern Seoul, and I find myself feeling grateful for the opportunity to step back in time, if only for a little while.
Preserving the Past, One Grandma at a Time
As I continue sketching, the toothless grandma from earlier returns, leaning over my shoulder with the same rapt attention as before. She nods and smiles, occasionally pointing out details I’ve missed or chosen to overlook. It’s a testament to the deep-rooted pride and reverence that the locals have for their cultural heritage.
In a way, this grandma is the embodiment of Bukchon’s enduring spirit. She may be small and frail, but her unwavering dedication to preserving the past is as sturdy as the hanok that line the streets. She’s a living, breathing link to a time long gone, and her presence here, quietly watching over the neighborhood, is a poignant reminder of the importance of safeguarding our cultural treasures.
As I finish my sketch, the grandma beams with delight, her toothless grin a symbol of the joy and satisfaction that comes from seeing one’s traditions being honored and celebrated. It’s a moment that encapsulates the essence of Bukchon Hanok Village – a place where the past and present coexist in perfect harmony, where the old and the new come together to create something truly remarkable.
Embracing the Future, One Step at a Time
As I bid farewell to the grandma and continue my wanderings through Bukchon, I can’t help but feel a sense of optimism for the future of this remarkable neighborhood. The efforts of Seoul City and the local residents to preserve the hanok have paid off, and the area has become a popular destination for both domestic and international travelers.
But Bukchon is more than just a tourist attraction. It’s a living, breathing community, where the residents take great pride in their cultural heritage and work tirelessly to ensure that it remains vibrant and relevant for generations to come. Whether it’s the shopkeepers who curate their wares to reflect the traditional aesthetic, or the artists and artisans who ply their crafts in the cozy workshops tucked away in the alleys, there’s a palpable sense of purpose and dedication that permeates every aspect of Bukchon’s daily life.
As I wander through the streets, I can’t help but be inspired by the way in which the people of Bukchon have managed to strike a delicate balance between preserving the past and embracing the future. They’ve recognized the inherent value in their cultural heritage, and they’re committed to sharing it with the world in a way that is both authentic and accessible.
And who knows, perhaps one day, I’ll return to Bukchon Hanok Village, sketchbook in hand, and stumble upon another toothless grandma who’ll inspire me to keep going, to keep capturing the essence of this remarkable place. After all, sometimes all it takes is one person to make you appreciate the beauty of the world around you, one brushstroke at a time.
