Uncovering the Secrets of Seoul’s Royal Legacy
I’ll never forget the day my husband and I set out to discover the hidden gems of Seoul’s imperial past. As we had spent a week sightseeing the modern marvels of this bustling city, towering skyscrapers, and neon-lit streets, we felt a strong urge to delve deeper into Korea’s rich cultural heritage.
That’s when we decided to embark on a journey to Jeonju, a small city about three hours south of the capital. We had an appointment with a very special person – Yi Seok, a descendant of the Joseon Dynasty, the last and longest-ruling royal family on the Korean peninsula.
As we boarded the comfortable bus and watched the lush green landscapes roll by, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of excitement and anticipation. We were about to uncover a side of Korea that few modern travelers get to experience – a glimpse into a time before neon lights and skyscrapers, when the country was ruled by an imperial dynasty.
Meeting the ‘Lost Prince’
Upon arriving in Jeonju, we made our way to Yi Seok’s cozy apartment, which was part of a traditional guesthouse near the edge of a beautifully preserved historic village. The prince greeted us warmly, inviting us into his living room where we sat cross-legged around a shining pot of tea.
Despite his 70 years, Yi Seok still carried an air of regal elegance, dressed in a modern-day version of traditional Korean attire. As we settled in, he began to share the captivating story of his family’s rise and fall, a tale of a fortunate son born too late.
The Joseon Dynasty: Korea’s Forgotten Royalty
Yi Seok’s early years were spent at Sadong Palace in Seoul, where he was raised with a strict code of princely behavior. He reminisced about going to school escorted by handmaids and following a rigorous etiquette, where running was considered undignified and making noise at dinner was forbidden.
The Joseon Dynasty, which ruled Korea for over five centuries, was a period of profound cultural and political transformation. Under the leadership of military general Yi Song-gye, the dynasty came to power in 1392, moving the capital from Kaesong to Seoul. Over the next 26 monarchs, they oversaw the creation of a unique Korean alphabet, the full bloom of Confucian culture, and an isolationist foreign policy that earned Korea its “Hermit Kingdom” nickname.
However, the Yis’ reign came to a tragic end in 1910 when Japan colonized the Korean peninsula. After World War II and the expulsion of the Japanese, the country was divided, and the Joseon royal family was officially expelled from their palaces during a military coup in the 1970s.
Finding Purpose in the Shadows of the Past
As Yi Seok finished college, his family had few remaining assets, and he found himself struggling to make a living. He turned to singing in hotel bars and on military bases, which, despite embarrassing some of his relatives, made him a popular figure.
But Yi Seok’s life took a darker turn when he fled Korea in 1979, going to the United States on a tourist visa and staying to work as a pool cleaner and security guard. It was a low point in his life, and he even attempted suicide nine times, feeling lost and disconnected from his royal roots.
However, in 2004, a Korean reporter uncovered Yi Seok’s plight, and the city of Jeonju, seeking to promote tourism, offered him a new beginning. They gave him a house and a job as a spokesman for the Joseon dynasty’s legacy, and today, he gives tours in Jeonju and speaks about royal history at universities across the country.
Tracing the Footsteps of Korea’s Emperors
After our captivating visit with the prince, my husband and I set out to explore the architectural and cultural remnants of Korea’s imperial past scattered throughout Seoul. Our first stop was the majestic Gyeongbokgung Palace, the grandest of the capital’s five grand palaces, built during the Joseon dynasty.
As we wandered through the expansive grounds, passing through ornate gateways and admiring the elegantly painted buildings, it was hard to imagine the palace’s tumultuous history. Twice burned down by the Japanese, it stood as a testament to the resilience of Korea’s cultural identity, having been meticulously restored to its former glory.
Exploring the palace’s intricate details, from the carved stone animals representing the zodiac to the japsang figurines adorning the rooftops, we were transported back in time, captivated by the sheer grandeur and the layers of history etched into every corner.
Uncovering the Hidden Gems of Seoul’s Imperial Legacy
Our journey through Seoul’s imperial past continued as we ventured beyond the well-known palaces. In the lively Insadong neighborhood, we stumbled upon remnants of the original walled city, the pagoda-shaped gates surrounded by bustling markets.
Wandering through the Bukchon Hanok Village, we were immersed in the rich cultural heritage, surrounded by traditional Korean houses known as hanoks. And at the Changdeokgung Palace, we discovered a hidden gem – the enchanting Secret Garden, a forested mountain landscape that had once served as a private retreat for the royal family.
Each step we took revealed another layer of Seoul’s imperial legacy, from the Jongmyo Shrine, where tablets commemorating former kings and queens are preserved, to the remnants of the ancient city wall winding through the wooded trails behind the presidential Blue House.
Embracing the Past, Shaping the Future
As our time in Seoul drew to a close, I couldn’t help but reflect on the remarkable journey we had undertaken, uncovering the secrets of Korea’s imperial past. From meeting the enigmatic Prince Yi Seok to exploring the grand palaces and hidden gems of the capital, we had gained a deeper appreciation for the country’s rich cultural heritage.
While the modern-day citizens of Seoul may not share the same fervor for their royal lineage as they do for democracy, the echoes of the past still reverberate throughout the city. And hotels like ours in Seoul play a crucial role in preserving and sharing this captivating history with curious travelers from around the world.
As we bid farewell to the city, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of wonder and gratitude for the opportunity to uncover the hidden stories that lie within Seoul’s grand palaces and royal legacies. It was a journey that had truly enriched our understanding of Korea’s past, present, and future.
