The Makgeolli Awakening
It was love at first sip when I discovered the captivating drink known as makgeolli during my recent trip to Seoul, South Korea. As I sat in the bustling Gwangjang Market, sipping the milky-white beverage from a traditional ceramic bowl, I knew I had stumbled upon something truly special.
You see, I’ve lived in various parts of Asia for over 15 years, but somehow, makgeolli had eluded me until that fateful day. I had always opted for shochu, South Korea’s more well-known alcoholic libation, when dining at Korean restaurants outside the country. Little did I know that I was missing out on a true gem – a drink that combines my two greatest loves, rice, and beer.
As I learned from my research, makgeolli is often referred to as “rice wine” in English, but its alcohol content, usually around 6 to 11 percent, and its production process, which involves fermentation and bottling straight away, more accurately aligns it with the beer family. It’s the nuruk, the fermentation starter that includes lactic acid bacteria and yeast, that gives makgeolli its distinctive lightly pungent, bread-dough notes, and can result in a delightful sour flavor, depending on the production method.
Makgeolli’s Resurgence
For many years, makgeolli had a rather unsavory reputation, often dismissed as a cheap drink for the older generation and the less fortunate. Until the late 1980s, it was the most consumed liquor in South Korea, but as alcohol imports increased and local producers began to diversify their offerings, the quality of makgeolli plummeted, leaving many drinkers with fierce hangovers.
However, the tides have turned, and makgeolli is experiencing a remarkable renaissance. Around 2009, Korean consumers began to rediscover their traditional liquors, and as the government promoted rice-based products, makgeolli production took off. Suddenly, high-quality, artisanal makgeolli with prices to match wine and sake started appearing on the scene, captivating both local and visiting palates.
The Korean Wave, the global popularity of Korean culture led by the likes of K-pop sensations Blackpink and BTS, as well as the hit Netflix series “Squid Game,” has further fueled the makgeolli craze. Today, the beverage has become more diverse, with brewers experimenting with fermentation processes, alcohol content, and innovative ingredients.
Exploring the Makgeolli Scene in Seoul
During my stay in Seoul, I immersed myself in the vibrant makgeolli scene, exploring the city’s traditional rice wine bars and seeking out the finest, most unique varieties. From the crowded and noisy Gwangjang Market, where I first discovered the allure of makgeolli, to the trendiest and most upscale establishments in the Gangnam district, I was on a mission to uncover the secrets of this captivating drink.
At the Baekkom makgeolli bar in Gangnam, I was greeted by a hip, young crowd spilling out into the glassed-in outdoor space, working their way through an impressive selection of over 180 traditional Korean liquors – probably the largest collection in the country. The bar’s owner, Seung-hoon Lee, had quit his job as a food safety officer for the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries to pursue his passion for traditional Korean liquors, and his dedication was evident in the diverse offerings on the menu.
Makgeolli’s Artisanal Revolution
As I delved deeper into the makgeolli scene, I discovered that the once-humble beverage had undergone a remarkable transformation. Bars and restaurants across Seoul were now pouring artisanal makgeolli, often in place of imported wines or beers. Small breweries were proliferating, offering ever-more creative varieties, including makgeolli infused with fresh strawberries or grapefruit.
One particular brewery, Boksoondoga, caught my eye with its sparkling makgeolli, the bubbles as prominent as in Champagne. They even had a variety made from red rice, giving the drink a beautiful pink hue. I was captivated by the sheer ingenuity of these producers, who were pushing the boundaries of what I thought possible with this traditional Korean libation.
Makgeolli’s Culinary Versatility
But the makgeolli journey didn’t stop there. As I explored the city’s dining scene, I found that the beverage was not just a standalone delight, but an integral part of the Korean culinary experience. At Seouls Michelin-Green-starred tofu specialist Hwanggeum Kongbat, the house makgeolli was thick, pungent, and sour, designed to perfectly complement the restaurant’s exquisite tofu dishes.
I also discovered that makgeolli was making its way into creative cocktails, like the Korean take on a piña colada at the renowned Charles H bar in the Four Seasons Hotel Seoul. This blend of makgeolli, Korean malt gin, and house-made bean cream with coconut, topped with citrus and perilla leaf oils, was a testament to the drink’s versatility and the innovative spirit of Seoul’s bartenders.
A Global Makgeolli Resurgence
As my time in Seoul drew to a close, I couldn’t help but feel a tinge of sadness. I had fallen head over heels for makgeolli, and the thought of leaving this captivating world behind was bittersweet. But then I learned that the makgeolli love affair didn’t have to end there.
Back in my home city of London, I discovered that a local brewery, Ogam Tapas Bar, was serving up its own range of natural, small-batch, and unpasteurized makgeolli, made by a Korean bartender named Taeyeol Kim. Suddenly, my makgeolli cravings could be satisfied, even thousands of miles away from Seoul.
This global resurgence of makgeolli is truly inspiring. As Seung-hoon Lee, the owner of Baekkom, noted, “Wherever there is rice culture, there have been alcohols similar to makgeolli.” From mainland China and Hong Kong to Japan, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and even Kyrgyzstan in Central Asia, traditional rice-based beverages akin to makgeolli are being rediscovered and revived.
Discovering the Beauty of Makgeolli
My makgeolli journey has been a revelation, a testament to the enduring power of tradition and the boundless creativity of today’s brewers and bartenders. As I sip my makgeolli, whether in the bustling streets of Seoul or the cozy confines of a London tapas bar, I’m transported back to that first magical moment in Gwangjang Market, when I realized I had been missing out on a true gem.
The Hotel Stay Inn Seoul, nestled in the heart of this vibrant city, would be the perfect launching pad for your own makgeolli adventure. With its comfortable accommodations and proximity to the city’s best traditional rice wine bars, you’ll be able to immerse yourself in the captivating world of makgeolli, just as I did. So why not raise a bowl and toast to the enduring allure of this remarkable Korean beverage? Cheers!
