Discovering the Delights of Gyeongju
South Korea is a small and densely-packed country which makes it an absolute delight to explore. Distances are short, transport links are widespread and reliable, and you never have to go very far for a change of scene. While there’s a lot to see and do, you don’t have to spend weeks traipsing around to make the most of your time there. In my experience, 10 days is the perfect amount of time to get a real flavor of what South Korea has to offer – from hyperactive cities to pristine natural parks and beautiful historic towns.
After flying in, you’ll start your trip proper in delightful Gyeongju, a beautiful and relaxing historic town that ticked so many boxes for what I’d hoped to see in South Korea. From there, you’ll launch head and stomach-first into the bright lights of Seoul with all of the endless energy that comes with this world-class capital. Finally, you’ll get to experience a part of the country that I’m convinced will be the highlight of your time here – Seoraksan National Park blew me away with its incredible hiking trails, stunning mountains and rivers, and quiet, peaceful surroundings that I honestly didn’t expect to find.
Presuming that you’re arriving at one of South Korea’s international airports, you’re likely to be pretty tired and jetlagged. Rather than throwing yourself into the chaos of a major city, I’d recommend heading somewhere much more chill right off the bat – Gyeongju is that place. Once the political and cultural heart of South Korea, Gyeongju these days is a much more relaxed place to be. This small city in the south of the country is known as the “Museum Without Walls”, and even an hour or two of walking around will clearly show why, with ancient buildings, temples, and burial mounds seemingly around every corner.
A Relaxing Start in Gyeongju
After a long flight, being able to take a shower, sleep, and start refreshed in the morning was very welcome. We spent the night at a cozy little guesthouse that was perfectly set up for exactly this kind of short stay, less than a five-minute walk from Seoul Station. The room itself was great for a night – the shower, fridge, and air-con all worked well, and the bed was nice and comfortable. It may as well have been the Hilton, except the Hilton wasn’t in such a useful location, nor did it cost just $65 a night.
When it comes time to take the high-speed train bound for Gyeongju, it leaves Seoul Station from early morning until late evening and costs around 40-50,000 won from Seoul. We took the 8:11 am departure, and it took almost exactly two hours to get to Singyeongju KTX station outside Gyeongju. From there, just head out of the station and veer right to find taxis and buses to take you into the city – there’s a picture of the bus stands below. All of the following buses – 50, 60, 61, 70, 203, 700 – take you into town in about half an hour and cost 1,300 won. If you picked up a T-Money card in Seoul, you can use it on this bus as well; otherwise, you’ll need to pay in cash.
Exploring Gyeongju’s Historic Highlights
If you’re anything like me, you’re going to need a little recovery time after a long-haul flight. For that reason, I’ve saved most of the activities for tomorrow – for now, just freshen up, grab some dinner, and get a good night’s sleep before diving headfirst into things in the morning.
After breakfast, it’s time to head out and see the city’s biggest attractions: a collection of large lumps in the ground. These aren’t just any old lumps, though – they’re royal tombs and other earthen burial mounts from the Silla dynasty, which ruled much of the Korean peninsula from the seventh to the ninth centuries. They’re part of the wider UNESCO World Heritage site that covers much of Gyeongju’s historic district, and they’re seriously impressive.
The most popular area, the Daereungwon complex, is also the largest, with the most tombs. There are several designated photo spots, and they’re much quieter early in the morning if you want a shot without dozens of people in it. It’s worth visiting the other tomb clusters that lie slightly further north as well – they’re much quieter, and there’s an interesting small museum inside the Geumgwanchong tomb about Silla history and the construction, excavation, and preservation of the tombs that’s definitely worth a visit.
Once you’re done with the tombs, it’s time to go for a stroll down Hwangnidan Road. If you’ve ever seen photos of beautiful wooden hanok-style Korean houses in Gyeongju, chances are this is where they were taken. Most of them have been converted into cafes and shops now, but they’re no less beautiful for it. I ended up walking up and down this street probably a dozen times during my stay and never tired of it.
If you’re feeling peckish by this point, it’s time to stop for bibimbap. Daewha Mandu is a great place to start – the menu is simple, and most of the staff speak enough English that you shouldn’t have translation issues. The tuna-based bibimbap was absolutely delicious, but if it doesn’t appeal, there are a few other options, including dumplings and tteokbokki, another tasty Korean staple.
Exploring Gyeongju’s Natural Wonders
Just before you get to the famous Cheomseongdae observatory, detour south for a block to Lichoya, an ice-cream store with a different kind of fame. This place is big on Instagram and TikTok thanks to the cute cookies in the shape of Cheomseongdae observatory that come with its desserts. Be sure to order the matcha flavor – it’s what they specialize in, and it’s particularly good.
The observatory itself dates back to the seventh century and is the oldest surviving example in Asia, or depending on who you ask, the entire world. You can’t go inside, and not only because the entranceway is at least a dozen feet up the side of the tower, so it doesn’t take long to walk around it. I was lucky enough to be there in spring, and as interesting as the observatory was, it was hard to focus on it due to the explosion of color nearby. Fields of flowers lined the walking paths, carved out with convenient photo spots that were in regular use as I wandered past. It was genuinely stunning, so if you’re there at the right time of year, be sure to take advantage.
While the observatory is the most well-known historic site in the park, it’s far from the only one. To be honest, it wasn’t even the one I enjoyed the most. For that, keep following the paths south and west towards Woljeong Bridge – you can either skirt around the edge of the woodland or, even better, wander through it instead. It’s only a small patch of forest, so it’s basically impossible to get lost, and it’s surprisingly tranquil. Like many of the attractions in Gyeongju, the original version of the bridge dates back to the Silla dynasty. It’s been fully reconstructed since then, and it’s lovely to wander across, take photos, and admire the views up and down the river.
Exploring Seoul: From Palaces to Street Food
After a relaxing start in Gyeongju, it’s time to launch head and stomach-first into the bright lights of Seoul. This world-class capital city is full of endless energy, and you’re about to experience it all. But first, you’ll make a quick stop in the historic Jongmyo Shrine on your way to the bustling Gwangjang Market.
Palaces and Temples in Seoul
Your first stop in Seoul is the impressive Gyeongbokgung Palace, the biggest and most famous of the city’s five royal palaces. First built in 1395, the palace stretches over an impressive 100 acres and is a must-visit for any first-time visitor to Seoul.
To get there, take the metro to either Gyeongbokgung Palace station, exit 5, or Gwanghwamun station, exit 2. You can either pay for an individual entry ticket (3,000 won) or buy a pass that gives access to all five palaces for 10,000 won. The pass is valid for three months, and if you’re also planning to visit Changdeokgung Palace, it’ll save you money.
One of the highlights at Gyeongbokgung is the ceremonial changing of the guards, which takes place at 10 am and 2 pm each day. It’s a grand and impressive display, so make sure you arrive at least 15 minutes before it starts to get a good spot. After enjoying the ceremony, spend some time exploring the rest of the palace grounds, including the beautiful gardens and ponds at the rear of the complex.
From Gyeongbokgung, head south towards the Jongmyo Shrine, the oldest Confucian shrine in South Korea. It’s a peaceful oasis of calm just a short walk from the bustling streets of central Seoul. While you can’t go inside the main shrine building, the grounds are lovely to wander around, and there’s also a small museum and crypt to explore.
Feasting at Gwangjang Market
After working up an appetite, it’s time to make your way to the famous Gwangjang Market. This sprawling food hall is a foodie’s dream, with endless stalls serving up delicious local specialties. The market is particularly famous for its “knife-cut” noodles, made famous by Cho Yonsoon in the Netflix series “Street Food: Asia.”
Even if you don’t make it to Cho Yonsoon’s stall, there are plenty of other amazing food options to try. Wander through the bustling aisles, sampling everything from steaming dumplings to sweet and savory pancakes. It’s a feast for the senses, with the sights, sounds, and smells of Korean street food at its best.
Just be prepared for the crowds – Gwangjang Market is a popular spot, especially on weekends. If you can, try to visit on a weekday for a slightly more relaxed experience. And make sure to bring cash, as many of the stalls don’t accept cards.
Exploring Myeongdong
After filling up on delicious street food, it’s time to explore one of Seoul’s most vibrant neighborhoods: Myeongdong. This bustling area is known for its endless shopping and dining options, as well as its lively street food scene.
Start by wandering along the main Myeongdong shopping street, taking in the neon lights, street performers, and crowds of people. Pop into some of the many cosmetic stores, where you can sample the latest Korean beauty products. And be sure to save room for dinner, as the evening street food market is not to be missed.
As the sun goes down, the streets of Myeongdong come alive with the sights and smells of the bustling night market. Hundreds of vendors set up shop, serving up all kinds of delicious Korean street food – from fried chicken and skewers to sweet treats and savory pancakes. It’s the perfect way to cap off your day of exploring Seoul.
Hiking and Healing in Seoraksan National Park
After the bright lights and bustling energy of Seoul, it’s time to head to one of the highlights of your trip: Seoraksan National Park. This stunning natural wonderland is renowned for its incredible hiking trails, towering peaks, and serene, peaceful surroundings.
Getting to Seoraksan National Park
The easiest way to get to Seoraksan National Park from Seoul is to take a bus from the Seoul Express Bus Terminal. The journey takes around 2.5 hours, and buses run regularly throughout the day. You can either buy your ticket in advance online or just turn up and hop on the next available bus.
Once you arrive in the town of Sokcho, you’ll need to take a local bus or taxi to the park entrance, which is about a 30-minute journey. The local buses (numbers 7 or 7-1) run regularly and are easy to spot. Just cross the street from the bus terminal and look for the right bus.
Hiking Seoraksan’s Trails
Seoraksan National Park is a hiker’s paradise, with a network of trails ranging from easy strolls to challenging, strenuous hikes. No matter your fitness level, there’s something for everyone here.
One of the most popular and rewarding hikes is the Ulsanbawi Rock Trail. This challenging 7.6km (return) route takes you up to a stunning viewpoint overlooking the park’s rugged, granite peaks. The first section is an easy riverside walk, but then it’s a relentless climb up countless stone steps to the top. The effort is worth it, though, with breathtaking vistas in all directions.
For those seeking a slightly easier hike, the Biryong Falls Trail is a great option. This moderate 4.8km (return) route follows a river up to two beautiful waterfalls, Yukdam Falls and Biryong Falls. There’s also the option to extend the hike further up to the observation deck for the impressive Towangseong Falls.
And if you’re after a more leisurely stroll, the Biseondae Rock Trail is a delightful 6km (return) hike through a peaceful, wooded valley. The highlight is the stunning Biseondae Rock formation at the end of the trail, which offers a serene, nature-filled respite.
Exploring Seoraksan’s Other Attractions
While the hiking trails are undoubtedly the main draw of Seoraksan National Park, there are plenty of other attractions worth exploring as well. One of the most iconic is the Gwongeumseong Cable Car, which whisks you 700 meters up the mountainside to the top of Gwongeumseong Peak. From up here, you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views over the park’s rugged, snow-capped peaks.
Back down at ground level, be sure to check out the beautiful Sinheungsa Temple, one of the park’s most significant Buddhist sites. The ornate buildings and tranquil grounds provide a peaceful contrast to the dramatic mountain landscapes.
No matter how you choose to spend your time in Seoraksan, this national park is sure to leave a lasting impression. Its natural beauty, serene atmosphere, and incredible hiking trails make it a highlight of any trip to South Korea.
Farewell to Seoul
As your time in South Korea draws to a close, it’s time to head back to Seoul for your final day. This time, you’ll be staying in the vibrant Myeongdong neighborhood, known for its endless shopping, dining, and entertainment options.
Exploring Myeongdong
Start your day by immersing yourself in the bustling energy of Myeongdong. Wander along the main shopping street, popping into the many cosmetic stores and boutiques that line the sidewalks. This neighborhood is a shopper’s paradise, with everything from fast fashion to high-end designer brands on offer.
If you need a break from the crowds, head to the serene Cheonggyecheon Stream, an 8km-long urban renewal project that has transformed a once-neglected waterway into a peaceful oasis in the heart of the city. Take a stroll along the tree-lined paths, or simply find a spot to sit and watch the world go by.
For lunch, make your way to one of the many delicious fried chicken and beer restaurants that dot the streets of Myeongdong. This iconic Korean pairing is the perfect fuel for an afternoon of exploring.
Enjoying Seoul’s Attractions
After lunch, visit the iconic N Seoul Tower, which offers stunning panoramic views over the city. You can either take the cable car up to the tower, or challenge yourself with a hike up Namsan Hill for a more active approach.
If you have any energy left, cap off your time in Seoul with a visit to the sprawling Lotte World, a massive indoor theme park that’s often referred to as the “Disney of Korea.” From thrilling rides to cultural exhibits, there’s something for everyone at this entertainment complex.
As your time in South Korea comes to an end, take a moment to reflect on all the incredible experiences you’ve had, from the historic charm of Gyeongju to the natural wonders of Seoraksan, and the vibrant energy of Seoul. This dynamic country has so much to offer, and I’m confident you’ll be planning your return visit before you even step on the plane home.
