A Mouthwatering Journey Through Korea’s Capital
As I stroll through the bustling streets of Seoul, the air is filled with an intoxicating blend of aromas. The sizzle of marinated meats on charcoal grills, the pungent scent of fermented kimchi, and the earthy aroma of simmering soups – it’s a sensory overload that leaves my stomach rumbling in anticipation.
But this is no ordinary culinary scene. Seoul is in the midst of a dining renaissance, a gastronomic revolution that is redefining Korean cuisine and captivating the taste buds of food enthusiasts worldwide. From the traditional hanshik (royal court cuisine) of the Joseon Dynasty to the cutting-edge fusion dishes that are pushing the boundaries of creativity, the city’s culinary landscape is a vibrant tapestry of flavors, traditions, and innovation.
As I discovered on a recent trip, the heart of this renaissance lies in the humble yet iconic banchan – the small shared dishes that accompany most Korean meals. These intricate side dishes, with their kaleidoscope of colors and flavors, have long been the unsung heroes of Korean cuisine. But now, a new generation of chefs is elevating them to the forefront, using them as a canvas to showcase their artistry and creativity.
Rediscovering the Roots of Korean Cuisine
My journey begins at Jirisan, a traditional restaurant nestled in the charming neighborhood of Insadong. As I settle into my seat, a parade of banchan appears on the table, each dish a work of edible art.
“Banchan originated during a time of Buddhist influence, when meat consumption was prohibited,” explains my dining companion, Kim Chan-Sook, a food blogger and dear friend. “But it wasn’t just about the lack of meat – it was about making the most of the available ingredients and creating dishes that were both nourishing and delicious.”
I listen intently as Kim delves into the rich history of Korean cuisine, tracing its roots back to the mid-Three Kingdoms Era (57 BCE-668 CE). It’s a story of resourcefulness, culinary innovation, and the reverence for nature that has been woven into the fabric of Korean food.
As Kim points out, the foundation of Korean cuisine was not meat, but rather the humble rice and the array of vegetable-based dishes that accompanied it. These were the staples that sustained the common people, the building blocks of a culinary tradition that would evolve and be perfected over the centuries.
Preserving the Legacy of Hanshik
At the Institute of Korean Royal Cuisine, I have the opportunity to delve even deeper into the heritage of Korean cuisine. This esteemed institution, established in 1971 when the government declared Korean Royal Cuisine an Intangible Cultural Property, is the guardian of the country’s culinary legacy.
As I step through the doors, I’m greeted by the serene atmosphere and the palpable sense of reverence for the past. Here, chefs dedicated to the art of hanshik, the refined cuisine once served to the Joseon Dynasty royalty, meticulously preserve the techniques and flavors of a bygone era.
I learn that in hanshik, the flavors are delicate and restrained, with no trace of the fiery gochugaru (Korean red chili pepper) that has become synonymous with modern Korean cuisine. Instead, the focus is on the intricate interplay of seasonings, the careful curation of ingredients, and the impeccable execution of each dish.
At the institute’s on-site restaurant, Jihwaja, I’m treated to a masterclass in the art of hanshik. As I savor the delicate bamboo shoot salad dressed in a ripe persimmon vinaigrette, I’m struck by the sheer artistry and dedication required to bring these ancient recipes to life.
“The essence of royal court cuisine is to make heartfelt meals with the best ingredients,” explains Hwang Ke-On, the vice president of Jihwaja. “It’s a slow food that requires a tremendous amount of time and effort to prepare and cook.”
The Modern Banchan Renaissance
But the culinary renaissance in Seoul is not confined to the preservation of tradition. A new generation of chefs is taking the centuries-old foundations of Korean cuisine and infusing them with a contemporary twist, creating dishes that are simultaneously innovative and deeply rooted in the country’s gastronomic heritage.
At Mingles, a two-Michelin-star restaurant, chef Kang Min-Goo offers a refined take on the classic ssam, a wrapped dish. He wraps tender Hanwoo beef, similar to Japanese wagyu, in crisp cabbage leaves and serves it alongside a comforting bean soup, elevating the humble ingredients into a work of culinary art.
Meanwhile, at Hansikgonggan, chef Cho Hee-Sook, who spent 37 years studying hanshik, reinterprets palace cuisine using local, seasonal ingredients and time-honored Korean techniques. Her interpretation of juk, the traditional rice porridge, changes with the seasons, incorporating ingredients like pine nuts, shrimp, and scallops, while her sophisticated rice pancakes, known as bapjeon, feature fermented seafood.
“I think it’s best when traditional food is kept authentic without disturbing the food’s nature,” Cho tells me. “But I’m pursuing a new approach by combining traditional taste and appearance with modern tastes and sensibilities. I believe it can elevate the value of the most distinctive banchan.”
Discovering the Culinary Gems of Seoul
As I explore the diverse dining landscape of Seoul, I’m struck by the sheer depth and breadth of the city’s culinary offerings. From the time-honored institutions like Jirisan and Jihwaja, where the essence of Korean tradition is preserved, to the cutting-edge establishments that are redefining the boundaries of Korean cuisine, Seoul’s dining scene is a tapestry of flavors and experiences.
One moment, I’m savoring the delicate elegance of hanshik at Jihwaja, where the ghosts of Joseon Dynasty royalty seem to linger in the air. The next, I’m marveling at the artistry and innovation of Mingles, where Kang Min-Goo’s contemporary take on Korean classics leaves me in awe.
But the true heart of Seoul’s dining renaissance, I discover, lies in the unassuming yet revelatory banchan. Whether it’s the traditional assortment at Jirisan or the modern interpretations that grace the tables of the city’s Michelin-starred establishments, these small dishes are the canvas upon which the culinary masters of Seoul are painting their masterpieces.
Embracing the Future of Korean Cuisine
As I bid farewell to Seoul, my suitcase filled with memories of the flavors and experiences I’ve encountered, I can’t help but feel a sense of excitement for the future of Korean cuisine. This city, once known for its street food and lively markets, has blossomed into a global gastronomic destination, a place where the past and present converge to create something truly extraordinary.
And at the center of this culinary renaissance are the chefs, the visionaries who are not only preserving the legacy of Korean cuisine but also pushing it forward, using their creativity and passion to redefine what it means to be a Korean restaurateur. Whether they are meticulously crafting the flavors of hanshik or reinventing the humble banchan, these culinary artists are ensuring that the rich tapestry of Korean food continues to captivate and inspire food lovers from around the world.
So the next time you visit Seoul, prepare your palate for a journey of discovery. From the traditional to the modern, the familiar to the avant-garde, the city’s dining scene is a feast for the senses, a testament to the enduring power of Korean cuisine to captivate, delight, and inspire.
